Pesto alla Genovese

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I learned earlier this year that calling anything pesto other than true pesto genovese can divide opinion. So I will start this post by explaining that I’m calling this pesto alla genovese – in the style of – simply because I don’t have access to Ligurian basil DOP, European pine nuts, or extra virgin olive oil from the region. You may consider this a matter of semantics, but I think it is worth calling out that difference.

The official pesto genovese recipe comes from the Consortium for Pesto Genoese – or Consorzio del Pesto Genovese – and that’s the one I followed – to a T – or rather almost as I only used one garlic clove instead of two. The original recipe indicates the garlic should be mellow and sweet, and my garlic was not, so I reduced it to one clove. Either way, we are looking for a perfume of garlic, lingering in the background, not overpowering the overall flavour.

The main ingredient you’ll need for making this is patience – slowly grinding the basil in a circular motion (not pounding, please!), to release its perfume and natural oils that help to bind this iconic sauce.

And a final note regarding the choice of pasta – traditionally pesto genovese can be served with trofie, mandilli di saea, or trenette – the latter being similar to linguine which I chose to use here.

Serves 4

Ingredients 

• 50g basil leaves, small and young if possible

• Pinch of coarse sea salt

• 2 garlic cloves, or “1 for every 30 leaves of basil”

• 1 tbsp pine nuts

• 6 tbsp grated Parmigiano reggiano

• 2 tbsp grated pecorino sardo

• 1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil – not too strong in flavour

Method 

1. In a pestle and mortar, add a pinch of salt and the garlic clove. Pound and grind until this forms a paste.

2. Add the pine nuts and again, pound and grind until you have a paste.

3. Next, start adding the basil leaves in – a handful at a time, not all at once – and in a grinding motion, not pounding, slowly break the basil leaves down. Keep adding basil and grinding in this way until you have used all of it.

4. Add the Parmigiano and incorporate, followed by the Pecorino.

5. Add the olive oil in a few batches, incorporating after each addition.