Risotto Verde with Fried Capers and Mozzarella
When I think back to some of my earliest childhood memories of cooking, risotto really stands out. My mum had a Reader’s Digest cookbook that had a seafood risotto in it, and I was mesmerised. Perhaps it was the unusual ingredients (unusual in the 90s UK, and for a 10yo) of scallops and prawns, or the fact it was something I had never seen or tried before.
My mum - truly my biggest supporter - agreed to let me cook it. We went to the supermarket and got all of the ingredients (at what I imagine was quite the expense), she helped me prepare the seafood and then left me to my own devices. While the resulting risotto was gloopy and stodgy, I have never been more proud of a dish, and ever since risotto has remained one of my favourite things to make.
I love making a green sauce pasta using blended spinach or kale, and so translating that into a risotto was a given. The cavolo nero adds a really punchy earthiness to the dish, and so a rich offering of butter/Parmigiano and an egg yolk really bring the rich/fattiness the dish needs to balance it. These final three ingredients are worked in during la mantecatura - a quick process at the end of cooking which allows all of the ingredients to really bind and marry, resulting in a creamy risotto that falls in waves when tossed.
Risotto Verde with Fried Capers and Mozzarella
Serves 4
Ingredients
For the cavolo nero pureé
150g cavolo nero, or you could sub for spinach or regular kale
2 garlic cloves
3 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
For the risotto
3 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
1 shallot, finely diced
approx 60ml dry white wine
250g Arborio rice
Boiling water - this will be your '“stock”! Fill a large pan with water and bring to a boil, then reduce to a very low simmer to keep hot as you cook the risotto
For the mantecatura
50g cold unsalted butter, cubed
50g Parmigiano Reggiano, finely grated
1 egg yolk (optional - just for extra oomph and richness)
For the garnishes
1 ball good quality mozzarella or fior di latte
Olive oil
1x 110g jar of baby capers - drained and patted dry with kitchen paper
Method
Cavolo nero pureé
Blanche the cavolo nero and whole garlic cloves in boiling water for a couple of minutes, then transfer to an ice bath - this will help keep it super vibrant!
Squeeze out most of the water from the cavolo nero and transfer to a high speed blender (if you use a food processor you will have more speckle-like risotto rather than bright homogenous green), along with the garlic, a really good pinch of salt and the olive oil.
Blitz until you have a pureé - add a splash of water as needed if you find it needs more lubrication to come together.
Set aside until ready to use. You can also make this in advance and store in an airtight container in the fridge - will keep for a good couple of days!
Fried capers
Heat a few tablespoons of olive oil in a saucepan - ideally something with high sides as the capers will splutter!
Once hot, add the capers and fry - swirling the pan frequently - until crispy - around 5 minutes.
Remove with a slotted spoon and place onto kitchen paper to absorb any excess oil - set aside until ready to use.
Risotto
On a low heat, add the olive oil to a large pan, shortly followed by the shallot. Sauté for a few minutes until translucent.
Add the risotto rice and stir well, allowing this to cook gently until the rice becomes opaque - a couple of minutes.
Deglaze with the wine and allow this to quickly reduce before you can start adding the “stock”.
Add the water one ladle at a time, stirring frequently to help bring out the starch in the rice. Never let the rice completely dry out before adding your next ladle. Risotto is a labour of love, so prepare to dedicate the next 15-20 minutes to nursing and stirring. Continue adding stock by the ladle until the rice is cooked through and with a very slight bite to it. The consistency shouldn’t be gloopy or clumpy - you should be able to use a spoon to part the risotto and it quickly fall back together.
Once the rice is almost there in terms of bite - add the cavolo nero pureé and mix well to combine.
Remove the pan from the heat and let it rest for a few minutes.
For the mantecatura - add the cold butter and grated Parmigiano. Stir to combine, then add the egg yolk and quickly stir to mix through. You can flip the risotto continuously in the pan to help bring it all together - the wave of risotto is what’s called all’onda - resembling a wave.
Season generously with salt - remember we didn’t use stock so seasoning absolutely here is key.
Serve on flat plates - shaking the risotto to spread it across the base - adorned with the fried capers and small pieces of mozzarella.
